Guides · 9 min read
A slow guide to Puglia — trulli, olive groves, and a very long lunch
One week in the heel of Italy, moving slowly between whitewashed towns, family farms, and the kind of lunch that ends at four in the afternoon.
July 24, 2026
The Journal
Notes from the road.
A running letter from Ekaterina — small hotels, long tables, the tomato she'll never stop talking about, and the occasional unpopular opinion.
11 posts
Guides · 8 min read
What is slow travel? A guide to travelling less, but better
If you have ever wondered what is slow travel, this is the place to start. It is the art of staying longer, going deeper, and choosing one small hotel over five cities.
July 26, 2026
Trip Reports · 6 min read
Porto in two days — a trip report
Not a full itinerary, just what I actually did on my most recent forty-eight hours in Porto: the walk, the two meals, the one bar, and the ferry home.
July 18, 2026
Notes · 4 min read
On going slow (and why I stopped counting cities)
A note on the quiet luxury of doing less on a trip — and why the best day I had last year had nothing in it.
July 12, 2026
Notes · 5 min read
Notes from Naoshima — an art island at low tide
A slow twenty-four hours on Japan's small art island, when the day-trippers have left and the museums close their doors.
July 10, 2026
Guides · 7 min read
Fez — a primer on how to be in a medina
A quiet introduction to the world's oldest living medieval city, and how to give it enough time to unfold for you.
July 2, 2026
Places · 6 min read
Six small hotels I keep sending people to
None of them are on the front page of any magazine. All of them will remember your name by day two.
June 28, 2026
Letters · 5 min read
Letter from the Cyclades
Dispatches from a slow August — donkeys, boats that don't run on time, and the best tomato I've ever eaten.
June 4, 2026
Guides · 7 min read
The Lisbon list (that I actually use)
Not the twenty-things-to-do version. Just the places I keep going back to, in the order I walk them.
May 18, 2026
Notes · 4 min read
Kyoto in the rain is better
An unpopular opinion after two spring seasons of watching people fight over the same photo of the same tree.
April 22, 2026
Notes · 5 min read
The long table — a note on the dinners I plan
Why so many of my trips end at a table for twelve in someone's home, and why I think you should say yes.
March 30, 2026